Grilled White Nectarines, Lipstick Peppers, Soppressata, Fresh Ricotta, Basil, Rocolla & Lemon-Fennel-Chili Vinaigrette

It seemed a pretty eccentric pairing at first. I originally stumbled on it in Ana Sortun's provocative Spice, a book which ponders endless brilliant uses of Eastern Mediterranean herbs and spices. Yet after a few stumped moments it came perfectly clear to me that of course stone fruit and peppers belong together. They have all kinds of sisterly affinities: are sweet, summer-induced, and each take gorgeously to fire and smoke. I, as usual, take liberties with Sortun's original Grecian premise of Grilled Peaches and Peppers, pulling it more towards the Italian coast.

Summer's honey-fat white nectarines and skinny-walled lipstick peppers are landing en masse and something has to be done about it. I have a garlicy two-footer of Fra'Mani's Soppressata... I know, I know. I will make my own, a la Hank Shaw, the moment I land my grand restaurant kitchen - the one with the oversized walk ins, perfectly chilled meat cellars, and an organic garden outside the antiqued back door. For now I slice bought artisanal on our ancient meat slicer (and I don't mean the coveted hand-turned style, I mean old) and overlap the rosy, clove-infused rounds on a plate with Summer basil and rocolla tossed with lemon, fennel seeds and crushed chilies, all of which easily commune with said salame's gallant interior. I lay warm, charred nectarines & peppers into the rumble and finish with spoons of fresh ricotta and virgin oil vinaigrette, then silently thank chef Sortun for the sweet spark...

Grilled White Nectarines, Lipstick Peppers, Soppressata, Fresh Ricotta, Basil, Rocolla & Lemon-Fennel-Chili Vinaigrette (serves 4)

Lemon-Fennel-Chili Vinaigrette

1 lemon, fine zested and juiced for about 2 tablespoons of juice

1 teaspoon fennel seed, toasted and lightly crushed

1 small chili de Arbol, seeded and crumbled

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

Whisk the lemon juice and zest in a small bowl. Add the fennel seed, chili, a pinch of salt and a grinding of pepper. Slowly whisk in the olive oil and taste for seasoning. Adjust if needed.

For the Nectarines and Peppers

2 ripe white nectarines (or other perfect stone fruit: peaches, apricots...)

1/2 pound Lipstick or other smallish, thin-skinned pepper like Gypsy

Olive oil

Sea salt & freshly ground pepper

Fire up your grill. Cut the nectarines in half and remove the pit. Toss with a good splash of olive oil, a pinch of salt and grinding of pepper and grill, cut side down, until marked and hot, about 3 to 5 minutes. Turn onto skin side and do the same. Remove and hold in a lightly covered bowl. Toss the whole peppers with a good splash of olive oil, a pinch of salt and grinding of pepper and grill, turning several times, to mark each side, until collapsing slightly, about 5 minutes. Add to the bowl with nectarines.

To Assemble

12 thin slices of soppressata, homemade or bought artisanal

1 cup rocolla, cleaned

1 cup basil leaves (a mix is nice if possible: opal and a green variety), cleaned

Lemon-fennel-chile vinaigrette

1 cup fresh ricotta, homemade or artisanal, Bellwether Farms is nice

Grilled nectarines and peppers

Cracked black pepper

Fan 3 slices of soppressata onto a plate, slightly overlapping. Toss the rocolla and basil with a splash of the vinaigrette. Place a handful (about 1/2 cup) into the center of the plate. Lay a warm nectarine half and several peppers into the greens. Drizzle with the juices which have collected in their bowl. Drop several spoonfuls of the ricotta onto the nectarines, peppers and the salami. Drizzle with a spoonful of the vinaigrette and finish with a good grinding of black pepper.